Bob Feeser
04-22-2007, 09:39 PM
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/I/41TZFQA8EFL._AA280_.jpg
39 of 43 people found the following review helpful:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/x-locale/common/customer-reviews/stars-5-0._V47081849_.gif Just to clear up some confusion
I have been researching buying a Powermatic jointer for quite some time. I was confused after reading the description. Further confusion set in when the Powermatic.com site listed the 60A and nothing on the 60B.
In the manufacturers description area here on the Amazon page, it states sheet metal beds. The only thing that is sheet metal is the stand, not the bed. The bed is cast iron.
I was concerned because the previous models, number 60, and 60A were made in USA and cost approx eighteen hundred dollars. This new one is made in Taiwan and a little more than half of that price. I talked to Powermatic about it, and they insisted that they are still being made to Powermatic specifications.
Another point is that the shipping weight is listed at 435 pounds, yet in the manufacturers description on this page, and on the Powermatic site, they list it at 280 pounds. That is correct for the bed, except that they do not include the stand, shippped in a separate box, which houses the motor, and is another 113 pounds. Add some more weight for crating, and there you have the 435.
At first I was a little hesitant at the Taiwan manufacturing, but I just received the Powermatic 719A chisel Mortiser which is made in Taiwan, and it really is built to Powermatic specs. I just received the Powermatic 66 5HP table saw, and that one is made in the USA. What a machine.
Doing woodwork for a living really brings out the limitations of your equipment. When you are the occasional weekend warrior, you have the time to make up for that. When time is of the essence, the Gold Standard is the way to go.
For example; I had a Sears professional 6 inch jointer and it spun at 15,000 knife cuts per minute instead of 21,000 like this Pmatic. (5000 RPMs with 3 cutters instead of 7000RPMs with 3 cutters.)
With the Craftsman, I had to super slow feed the work, in order to get a smooth surface. If I ran it through too quickly it created mini bumps. Additionally it would not take as much material off in a single pass.
Even more important, it only had a 44 inch long bed instead of the 72 inch on the 60B. I made some doors out of oak that were 93 inches tall and 1 3/8 inches thick. When jointing the edges of the upright stile pieces, toward the end of the run, I had to keep the jointer from tipping with my waist, while I was pushing the last two feet of work through.
Also, a board with an edge cup would not have enough bed surface area to do the job. The cupped ends would hang out over the ends. I would make multiple passes at a thin setting to get the ends closer, then try to make a complete pass. Then I was dealing with partial pass unevenness part way into the board. Once again, not what you want to be playing with when time is of the essence. For smaller stock items, it more than suffices.
I had submitted the product manual here at Amazon, and figure it will be posted after their review in a day or two. I could only find the manual for the 60A at the Powermatic site.
Once I get mine and get a chance to set it up, and spec it out I will come back and update my review. Meanwhile my nose is pressed against the glass waiting for the new arrival of the 60B jointer.
If you think Powermatic equipment is a bit pricey, pick up a couple of woodworking jobs. Quality hand-made work is in high demand and people are willing to pay enough for it when it is well done. At least enough to justify the cost. Powermatic really is the Gold Standard. I know a lot of this information seems like it is obvious, but if you read the available information without it, it's good to have some info to clear up the confusion. Hope this helps.
This item is available through Amazon by their affiliated suppliers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020BNNG?ie=UTF8&tag=toolsreviewco-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B00020BNNG
39 of 43 people found the following review helpful:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/x-locale/common/customer-reviews/stars-5-0._V47081849_.gif Just to clear up some confusion
I have been researching buying a Powermatic jointer for quite some time. I was confused after reading the description. Further confusion set in when the Powermatic.com site listed the 60A and nothing on the 60B.
In the manufacturers description area here on the Amazon page, it states sheet metal beds. The only thing that is sheet metal is the stand, not the bed. The bed is cast iron.
I was concerned because the previous models, number 60, and 60A were made in USA and cost approx eighteen hundred dollars. This new one is made in Taiwan and a little more than half of that price. I talked to Powermatic about it, and they insisted that they are still being made to Powermatic specifications.
Another point is that the shipping weight is listed at 435 pounds, yet in the manufacturers description on this page, and on the Powermatic site, they list it at 280 pounds. That is correct for the bed, except that they do not include the stand, shippped in a separate box, which houses the motor, and is another 113 pounds. Add some more weight for crating, and there you have the 435.
At first I was a little hesitant at the Taiwan manufacturing, but I just received the Powermatic 719A chisel Mortiser which is made in Taiwan, and it really is built to Powermatic specs. I just received the Powermatic 66 5HP table saw, and that one is made in the USA. What a machine.
Doing woodwork for a living really brings out the limitations of your equipment. When you are the occasional weekend warrior, you have the time to make up for that. When time is of the essence, the Gold Standard is the way to go.
For example; I had a Sears professional 6 inch jointer and it spun at 15,000 knife cuts per minute instead of 21,000 like this Pmatic. (5000 RPMs with 3 cutters instead of 7000RPMs with 3 cutters.)
With the Craftsman, I had to super slow feed the work, in order to get a smooth surface. If I ran it through too quickly it created mini bumps. Additionally it would not take as much material off in a single pass.
Even more important, it only had a 44 inch long bed instead of the 72 inch on the 60B. I made some doors out of oak that were 93 inches tall and 1 3/8 inches thick. When jointing the edges of the upright stile pieces, toward the end of the run, I had to keep the jointer from tipping with my waist, while I was pushing the last two feet of work through.
Also, a board with an edge cup would not have enough bed surface area to do the job. The cupped ends would hang out over the ends. I would make multiple passes at a thin setting to get the ends closer, then try to make a complete pass. Then I was dealing with partial pass unevenness part way into the board. Once again, not what you want to be playing with when time is of the essence. For smaller stock items, it more than suffices.
I had submitted the product manual here at Amazon, and figure it will be posted after their review in a day or two. I could only find the manual for the 60A at the Powermatic site.
Once I get mine and get a chance to set it up, and spec it out I will come back and update my review. Meanwhile my nose is pressed against the glass waiting for the new arrival of the 60B jointer.
If you think Powermatic equipment is a bit pricey, pick up a couple of woodworking jobs. Quality hand-made work is in high demand and people are willing to pay enough for it when it is well done. At least enough to justify the cost. Powermatic really is the Gold Standard. I know a lot of this information seems like it is obvious, but if you read the available information without it, it's good to have some info to clear up the confusion. Hope this helps.
This item is available through Amazon by their affiliated suppliers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020BNNG?ie=UTF8&tag=toolsreviewco-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B00020BNNG