scratches

[Jess Wetherhold]

I finally got a scratch. My baby 04 F150 finally got its first scratch from me parking on my narrow street. I didn't realize that the gigantic bush in my neighbors yard was so thick. Anyway, I could google search an answer but I wanted to contribute some to the forum. They scratches are not too deep, just into the clear coat. there are about 12 scratches running a good 20".
Any advice? Best compounds etc...
Thanks

[Bob Feeser]

Surface scratches can come out with compounding if they didn't go too deep. The problem is "compounded" by a lot of factors. (excuse the pun) Lack of Paint Depth: Factory finishes are purposely put on very thin. They bake their finishes at very high temperatures, something unobtainable when the car is assembled, instead of being a painted metal shell. So they can not put a lot of paint depth, because it would melt when baked, and cause a run down the sides of the vehicle. What does this have to do with your scratch? The answer is that you don't have very much to work with in compounding out your scratches. If they truly are surface scratches, very light, then a cotton cloth, much like T-Shirt material can be used with a hand rubbing compound, very fine; the small round cans are available at your local auto supply. It is fine compound, white in color. Dupont 606 S is one of my favorites. You can hand rub it, and finish up with a good paste wax.
Clear Coat, or Color Breakthrough::eek: If you rub for a long time, and manage to break through the clear coat, or even a solid color, you will wind up with something that is very noticeable, and usually requires refinishing. Sometimes if only one scratch is deep, it is better to leave it, than to break through the finish trying to compound it out. You should only have to rub for 30 to 60 seconds in a small area to take out a surface scratch. Longer than that is ok, but if you are scrubbing for 5 minutes, then it is time to get concerned about breakthrough problems.
Using an Electric Polisher: A professional polisher with a 7" bonnet, preferably lambs wool, and the same fine white compound will give you quicker results, and if used properly, will give you a deeper look. In the hands of someone who is not accustomed to using it, can cause you to burn a finish (little ridges show up) or you can break through to the primer, or through the clear coat rather easily.
Another popular polisher, with a much more reasonable price tag, is a random orbit type. They have a big bonnet on the bottom, with 2 handles on the sides of the motor. These don't spin at 2400 RPMs, consequently you can use them a lot more without worrying about breakthrough.
By the way, any time you are doing a larger polishing job, you want to do it in the shade. White compound if the sun gets to it, and it dries for a while on the surface, is nasty to try and get off. So do your work in the shade, and wash any splatter off as soon as you are done. Be sure and get it out of the nooks and crannies as well.
Deeper scratches: If your scratches are more than just surface scratches, you can take a chance on using a super fine wet and dry paper on them; something like 1200, or 1500 grit is advisable. You have to create a flat surface for it to work properly, so use a rubber sanding block. If you compound only on a deep scratch, you will be rubbing the material out of the "hole" at the same rate you are rubbing to top surface down. The only way to eliminate that is to use fine paper, then fine compound on a cloth. Warning, be ready to commit to some refinishing work when using fine paper and polish. It is a last ditch effort before taking it to a shop. If it polishes out, you saved it from needing refinishing, if it doesn't, you haven't hurt anything.
Conclusion: I know your truck is a relatively new one. What you are willing to live with is a personal preference item. Be that as it may, you could use the fine compound and wax on the area, and if a few still show, you could either live with them, or keep trying. A good rule of thumb, is that if you can pick the groove of the scratch with a fingernail, and it stops your finger, you have a "too" deep scratch for compounding. If you use your finernail, and it doesn't stop your movement, then it is an easy compound job.
An iffy recomendation: If you have a solid color, like black, or whatever, and the scratch is very narrow but deep, you could try taking a little bit of touch up paint and filling the crack. Then when it cures real solid, you can 1500 grit fine paper the surface and compound and wax. You get into a lot of crazies here with trying to do that. Urethanes require hardeners to really cure hard. Lacquers don't. Don't expect nothing at all to show, because it is not the perfect way to fix a scratch. If you have metal showing though, it is a necessity to prevent rust.
If you post some photos of it, I can, depending on the view, give you a prognosis as to the likelihood of a successful rub. :)
Hope this helps.